I dropped by Groundwork Coffee a couple days ago, to hang out with my friend Jeff (a little frazzled, left), and to check out their fair trade selections. A local coffee company, Groundwork boasts on its website about their “environmentally friendly, fair trade, shade-grown, and organic coffees.”
“All of it’s fair trade,” said the cashier. Cool. I got a decaf and a vegan banana choc chip muffin.
Then I noticed that none of the bags of coffee had the fair trade certification label. And a poster announced Groundwork Coffee’s fair trade-ness — but carefully omitted the word certified.
This wouldn’t've set off any bells had I not recently run into AH!Laska’s claim about buying their chocolate from “fair trade sources.” I dug through AH!Laska’s site to find out what these sources were — at the very bottom of their FAQ, AH!Laska’s admitted: “We support the principles of fair trade. However, our products do not have fair trade certification.”
Which I took as a total cop out — using the good name of fair trade without actually putting money down on getting stickered. I’ve said before that the FT label is the only way consumers can be sure that everyone in the coffee supply chain actually got paid as promised.
So I emailed Groundwork last night. Are you fair trade certified?
Ric, COO of Groundwork, shot back this morning: No.
But he also gave me his cell phone number, and invited me to visit: “I am personally and professionally open to being convinced that I am wrong, and am waiting for a compelling argument that will change my outlook to be delivered,” he wrote.
Wow. A challenge.
To prep, I did more research — Why do seemingly socio-enviromentally concerned coffee companies choose not to get fair trade certified? It’s seems pretty clear, judging from both Ric’s openness about the business model and the work put into the website describing the company’s relationship with farmers, that Groundwork cares about compensating their coffee farmers fairly. But apparently, Ric has concerns that’re holding him back from fair trade certification. And he said in his email they’re not finance-related (There is a fee to get certified).
This took me to Jeremiah Pick, a coffee roasting company, whose open letter about fair trade coffee was both moving and illuminating. Some of JP’s coffee is fair trade, but not all, for these reasons:
1. Less than 1% of all coffee growers in the world are fair trade farmers; the rest must sell their coffee in the world market.
2. To get fair trade certified, growers MUST be part of a cooperative, non-centralized organization. This eliminates any coffee grower that owns his or her own business.
3. Growers have to go through a farm inspection to get certified, but sometimes growers are made to wait as long as a year for the inspector to come around.
“The reality remains that for every Fair Trade grower, there are numerous impoverished others that for economic, social, geographical or circumstantial reasons cannot become certified…. Mandating a particular method of accomplishing these goals and trying to define what is “fair” will only narrow the number of people who benefit from our efforts and potentially diminish its long-term effects,” opined JP.
Could this be true?
To find out, I called Transfair, the group that does fair trade certification for the US, and caught Christina five minutes before she went out the door.
The short answer: Yes. Why? The main issues, it seems, are Transfair’s (and FLO’s — FLO is the international group, of which Transfair’s like the US branch) limited resources, both in terms of money and (wo)manpower. To maximize both, it seems FLO puts their efforts toward those actions that will produce the most benefits — i.e. co-ops vs. individual farmers.
And yes, there was a wait in the past for inspections in some areas. But that ended in 2004, when FLO started charging fees for inspections — The farms that weren’t serious about certification dropped off the list. “I don’t think there’s a waiting period now,” Christina said, though she’s aware the fee now creates a different, new hurdle for already-struggling farmers who want to get certified.
So, okay. I get that not everyone can get fair trade certified at this point, so not being fair trade certified doesn’t mean a company doesn’t care deeply about its farmers. If Groundwork wants to work directly with individual farmers who aren’t organized into a co-op, more power to them.
But when I called Ric this afternoon, I found out that wasn’t the issue either. “We get some of our coffee from growers that are fair trade certified,” he said. “It’s just that we’re not certified on our end.”
Hmmm. The mystery continues, because Ric was getting off the 405 to pick up his daughter and had to go. We’re to meet, face to face, at Groundwork’s offices next week, to talk certification over coffee.
Tags: fairtrade, coffee, losangeles, transfair